This is a supplement to the pattern instructions for the Union Street Satchel by Sallie Tomato. The pattern directions are much more detailed than in this post. These photos are meant to be a visual addition to the written directions and digitally drawn graphics in the pattern. I hope you enjoy! A video series for this pattern is coming soon!
If you haven’t already, you may
Purchase the Union Street Satchel pattern here! PREPARING THE FABRIC
Follow the steps in the pattern for cutting prepping your fabrics.
PREPARING THE HANDLES
Skip this step if using vinyl. On each corner of the fusible webbing, measure and mark (on the paper side) ½” along the width sides and 4” along the length. Draw a diagonal line between each ½” mark and 4” mark. Cut along each diagonal line to create tapered ends. Set fusible webbing strips aside. Repeat for handle pieces.
Skip this step if using vinyl. Center, then fuse each fusible webbing strip over each handle on the wrong side. Let cool, then peel paper backing off of the fusible webbing. Using a pressing cloth, press each length side of handles ¾” towards the wrong side. If using vinyl, use an adhesive tape or glue, rather than ironing.
Skip this step if using vinyl. Center each handle support over each handle and fuse or glue in place.
Topstitch each short end of each handle as stated in the pattern.
Thread each short, tapered handle end through a rectangle d-ring. Fold each end to the underside of handle.
With wrong sides together, fold each handle in half, lengthwise, and clip or pin layers together. Clip or pin as close as possible to the rectangle d-rings without puckering the ends of handle.
Begin by topstitching each folded end of handle across strap.
Continue by topstitching along the length of each handle. Set both handles aside.
Please see pattern for cutting and fusing directions. Snip a vertical and horizontal slit in the center of each circular area through both layers. These slits will be used for turning later.
With a short stitch length of 2 mm, carefully stitch all the way around each handle anchor, using the outer edge of the interfacing as a guide, leaving the top (short end) open.
Cut out each handle anchor, using pinking shears, approximately ⅛” from stitches. Cut straight across the top (short end). If you don’t have pinking shears, cut out each handle using fabric scissors. Then, clip all the way around each handle anchor from the outside edge up to the stitches, make sure to not cut through stitches. Use a turning tool to turn each handle anchor right side out through the slits, made previously. Mark each anchor, then topstitch each short end of each handle as stated in the pattern.
Thread the top of each anchor through a rectangle d-ring already attached to the handles – one anchor per rectangle d-ring. Make sure to thread from the right side of handles to the wrong side – the wrong side of each handle is the side with folds shown. Fold the top of each anchor over the rectangle d-ring to the backside of anchor. Topstitch across the top of each handle anchor—a zipper foot may be helpful. Trim tail on backside from stitch line just made.
ATTACHING HANDLES TO BAG
On the front and back exterior pieces, measure and mark, with a removable marking utensil, horizontal line from the top edge and a vertical line in from each length side. Measurements stated in the pattern. With the wrong side down, position one handle on the front of bag by matching the bottom edges of the handle anchors with the horizontal line and the outer edges of the handle anchors with the vertical lines. Pin or glue in place. Repeat this step for the back of bag.
Hand stitch (if using premade handles) or topstitch from each top folded edge of handle anchor to secure top of anchor to bag. Then, slowly hand stitch or topstitch the remaining edges of anchors with an even seam allowance. SIDE STRAPS AND SNAPS
Layer two side straps, right sides together. Use the unfinished side strap template on page 17 of pattern to cut a curve on one end of the strap. The curved end will be the top. Seam both layers together, leaving the bottom open.
Trim seam allowance and clip all the way around the top curve.
Turn the side straps right side out—a tube turner works great for this step. Press, then mark down from top edge of strap. Topstitch both length sides of strap and top curve, starting and stopping at the mark.
Center each side strap on each exterior side piece. Topstitch both length sides of strap, stopping at the previous topstitching.
Use the Snap Placement Guide, on page 16 of pattern, to mark the placement of the snaps on each strap. On the right side of each strap (topside), insert a snap at each mark according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Set both exterior side pieces aside.
Use the zipper pocket template, on page 17 of pattern, to mark the zipper placement on the non-fusible side of the zipper interfacing. After marking, cut along the placement line on the interfacing and remove section completely. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the zipper pocket facing. Use the zipper pocket template to mark the cut lines on the wrong side of the pocket facing.
With right sides together, center the zipper pocket facing, down from the top edge on one lining body panel. Pin, then sew along the zipper placement opening, inside the interfacing, with a small stitch length (do not start on a corner).
Carefully cut the marked cut lines inside the zipper placement through all layers, not cutting through stitches. Iron the zipper pocket facing open, around the stitch line.
Fold the zipper pocket facing through the opening, to the wrong side of lining. Iron into place from both sides of lining.
Center the zipper right side down, on the wrong side of the lining body, over the zipper pocket facing. The pull and right side of teeth should show through on the right side of lining. Pin, glue, or tape in place. On the right side, topstitch from zipper placement on lining, do not start on a corner. Tip: A zipper foot will help stitch close to the edge.
On the wrong side of lining body, place the zipper pocket lining, right side down, over the back of the zipper. Align the bottom edge of zipper pocket facing with the zipper pocket lining. Pin only zipper pocket facing and zipper pocket lining. Move the lining body away from pinned edges. Seam the full width of the zipper pocket facing and zipper pocket lining.
Fold the zipper pocket lining down, so the wrong sides of the lining body and zipper pocket lining are together. Iron seam flat. Fold the zipper pocket lining up, aligning the top edge of zipper pocket facing with the top of the zipper pocket lining. Pin only zipper pocket facing and zipper pocket lining. Move the lining body away from pinned edges. Seam the full width.
Move the lining body away from the sides of the zipper pocket lining. Pin and sew the full length of the side seams of the zipper pocket lining. Trim seam allowance and set aside.
To create the patch pocket, fold the top edge to the wrong side and iron fold (or finger press if using vinyl). Fold the top edge again to the wrong side and iron fold (or finger press if using vinyl).
Unfold the top and clip top corners. Refold the folds and topstitch from the bottom folded edge.
Fold the bottom edge and sides of the patch pocket to the wrong side and iron folds (or glue if using vinyl).
With the wrong side of the patch pocket against the right side of the remaining lining body panel, center the patch pocket, down from the top edge and pin or glue in place. Topstitch the sides and bottom edge of the patch pocket to the lining body. Topstitch a second row, in from the first, on the sides and bottom edge of the patch pocket. Topstitch a vertical line in from the right side to divide the patch pocket into two compartments. Set both lining body panels aside. BASE SUPPORT
With fusible sides together, center the base stabilizer along the length of the base interfacing and fuse in place. Fold the top down, and the bottom up, to cover the base stabilizer. The interfacing will overlap. Fuse in place.
To reinforce the interfacing to the stabilizer, sew around the outside edges and sew an “X” through the center of the base support.
Make marks as stated in the pattern for purse feet. Snip or punch small holes at each mark. Set the base support aside for later. ASSEMBLING THE BAG
Place the front and back exterior pieces right sides together. Seam the layers together along the bottom edge. Peel and trim the foam off the bottom (base) seam. Press seam allowance open. Clip each corner of the seam allowance to help reduce bulk.
With right sides together, position one exterior side panel in the upper right corner of one exterior body panel, aligning the right side and top edges. Seam the layers together along the right side edge, stopping before the bottom edge of the exterior side panel. At the end of the seam, clip the seam allowance up to the side seam. Do not cut through seam or beyond it.
Peel and trim the foam off the side seam. Press seam allowance open. Clip the top corner of the seam allowance to help reduce bulk. Repeat for the left side and remaining exterior side panel. Repeat steps attach the exterior side panels to the remaining exterior body panel.
Separate the layers of each exterior side panel and the bottom of the exterior body panel. With right sides together, match the base seam edge and the bottom edge of each side panel together. The snipped seam allowance on each side panel allows the fabric to lay flat. Clip or pin in place. Seam to create the bottom corners of bag. Turn exterior of bag right side out. Set the exterior of bag aside. Repeat for the lining body panels and lining side panels, leaving a gap in the middle of the base seam for later. Turn lining right side out.
Place the bag facing around the exterior, with right sides together. Seam facing to exterior around the top edges. Fold facing inside bag, wrong sides together, and topstitch top edge.
Insert internal base support down into the exterior. Insert six bag feet through the holes according to the manufacture’s instructions. Turn exterior wrong side out.
Unfold the facing so the raw edge of the facing is temporarily the top of bag. With right sides together, put the lining inside the exterior of bag, aligning top edges of the lining and the facing. Try your best to align side seams. Clip or pin around the top. Seam top.
Turn bag right side out by pushing the exterior and lining through the turning opening in the base seam of lining. Poke out corners of exterior and lining. Hand sew the turning opening in the base seam of lining closed. Push lining inside bag.
You have now completed your Union Street Satchel! Snap side straps to sides or together in the middle for alternate looks. Share your photos of your completed project using #SallieTomato, #UnionStreetSatchel, and #SallieTomatoHardware. Also share in the
Sallie Tomato Patterns Group on Facebook. I hope you enjoyed this pattern! For additional help, visit My Youtube Channel and Hardware Instructions Page!
Purchase the Union Street Satchel pattern here!